
WHEN MOTHER 
LETS US SEW 

MRS. RALSTON 




Class Tl^ iO 

Book. li^ 

GopyrightN" 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIK 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 




Arabella in all her finery 



WHEN MOTHER 
LETS US SEW 



By VIRGINIA RALSTON 



ILLUSTRATED 




NEW YORK 

MOFFAT, YARD AND COMPANY 

1910 



Copyright, 1910, by 
MOFFAT, YARD AND COMPANY 

NEW YORK 

All Rights Reserved 
Published, February, 1910 



P 



CCI.A256'!5 



LOVINGLY DEDICATED TO 

MY MOTHER 

WHO THINKS I DO NOT KNOW HOW TO SEW ! 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Introduction 3 

Materials for the First Lesson 7 

KuNNiNG Stitch ... 9 

Basting Stitch 10 

Stitching Stitch 13 

Back Stitching 14 

Making the Bean-Bag 16 

Over-handing 18 

Catch-stitch 21 

Scissors and Tape Measure 23 

Hemming Stitch 25 

Making a Dusting Cloth 26 

Making a Bib 29 

A Petticoat for Arabella 33 

Making a Placket 37 

The Gathering Stitch 39 

Stroking Gathers 41 

Putting on the Band 43 

Underbody 45 

Drawers 51 

Casing for Drawing String . » 57 

Everyday Frock for Arabella . 60 

Fly-fastening 62 

Band Trimming 63 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Making the Mantle , » = . » » . . . . 66 

Fancy Flannel Sacque ......... 71 

Blanket Stitch 73 

Sewing on Buttons 75 

Darning 77 

Making Buttonholes 78 

Patching 82 



ILLUSTRATIONS 



PAGE 



Arabella in all her Finery Frontispiece 

The Proper Sitting Position 5 

Threading the Needle 7 

Running Stitch 9 

Uneven Basting Stitch No. 1 10 

Uneven Basting Stitch No. 2 11 

Stitching Stitch No. 1 (right side) ..... 13 

Stitching Stitch No. 2 (wrong side) ..... 13 

Illustration op Knot 16 

Illustrations to *' Over-handing " . . . . . .18 

Catch-stitching (right side) 21 

Catch-stitching (wrong side) 21 

Catch-stitching (turning a corner) 22 

Illustration op ''Hemming Stitches" .... 25 

Illustration op Bib 29 

Arabella has a Petticoat 31 

Different Sewings for Petticoat . . . . . 33, 34 

Making a Placket 37 

Gathering on Canvas 39 

Gathering on Muslin 39 

Illustrations to "Band" . 43 

Underbody 46 

A True Bias 47 

Sewing on Bias 47 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 

Panties for Arabella 49 

Arabella Needs a Nightgown 53 

Nightgown 55 

Casing 57 

Arabella is Measured for her New Frock ... 59 

Every day Frock 60, 61 

Fly-fastening 62 

Arabella's Frock 65 

Making the Mantlb 66 

Arabella Likes her Warm Mantle 69 

Fancy Flannel Sacque 71 

Arabella Wears her New Sacque 72 

Blanket Stitch 73 

Blanket Stitch on Canvas 74 

Using a Pin to Keep the Thread Loose .... 75 

Darning Stitch on Canvas 77 

Buttonhole Stitch 79 

Buttonhole 79 

Patching 82, 83 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



WHEN MOTHEK LETS US SEW 



^^When we're big enough to sew, 
Why, then we're growing up, you know!" 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



INTRODUCTORY 

Think how nice it would be, when mother is 
busy with her sewing and mending, to sit beside 
her on a little low chair and help her with that 
big sewing basket over-flowing with work ! One 
could learn how to sew a button on brother 
Tom's shirt, mend a tear neatly in little sister's 
apron, thread mother's needles, put a new band 
on an outgrown petticoat and even make dainty 
little frills for big sister's shirtwaists. But the 
very best, I've kept 'til the last, for wouldn't 
you like to learn how to cut out, sew and make 
all your own doll baby's clothes'? To make real 
underclothes with real buttons and buttonholes 
that will button and unbutton^ Just to think 
of being able to dress and undress your little 
doll baby family as often as you like! One 
could even make little night gowns for them to 
sleep in and best of all, everything they wore 
would be made by your own busy little hands. 

First, we will have to find a little sewing 
room. This we would make in any sunny 
corner of the nursery or mother's sewing room, 
and if you will promise to keep it tidy, I'm sure 
she will say *'yes." Then we must find a little 
old chair and ask brother to get his tool box and 



4 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 

saw off several inches from the legs to make it 
the right height. For when you sit on your 
little chair to sew your feet should rest easily 
on the floor and not swing. The chair must be 
placed so that the light will fall from the side 
or over your shoulders from the back, and not 
directly in your eyes. Sit up straight and well 
back on your chair, for if you are able to take 
long, deep breaths your head will not ache and 
you will not tire so easily. There should be 
plenty of space to use your arms freely. This 
is important, children, and makes as much 
difference in your work as playing hide-and-go- 
seek in the country or in a city yard. Then you 
should have a little low table to stand in front 
or on one side for your workbasket. 

Then see if your hands are nice and clean, if 
not, run off and wash them, as dirty little fingers 
rust and soil the needle and makes it hard to 
push it in and out of the material. Now we are 
ready to learn how to sew. 




The proper sitting position 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



^^The thread is in the needle, 
The thimble in its place, 
Mamma is busy teaching me 
To run, to hem and baste." 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 7 

MATERIALS FOR THE FIRST LESSON 

Strip of single thread canvas, ten inches long 
by six inches wide. 

Tapestry needle, colored zephyr and a thimble 
of silver or aluminum. 

The thimble is worn on the second finger of 
the right hand. It should fit as firm and com- 
fortable as the 'tam cap on your head. The 
needle should be medium length with a long eye 
and blunt point. This kind of a needle is easy 
to thread and will not prick your fingers. 




THRC/MIMNO • 
THC -NCCPUC" 



To thread the needle hold it in your left hand 
between the thumb and forefinger. Take a 
piece of zephyr the length of your arm. Hold it 
in the right hand between the thumb and fore- 
finger, with a short end of half an inch extended 
beyond the end of the fingers. Pass this end 
through the eye of the needle. 



8 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 

• 

Do not bend your head over your work as 
this tires the shoulders and strains the eyes, but 
lift the work up so you can see it clearly and 
easily. 

Here is a list of the stitches we want to learn 
and try and remember by name : 

No. 1. — Running stitch. 
No. 2. — Basting stitch. 
No. 3. — Gathering stitch. 
No. 4. — Stitching stitch. 
No. 5. — Back-stitch. 
No. 6. — Hemming stitch. 
No. 7. — Over-handing. 
No. 8. — Catch-stitch. 
No. 9. — Blanket-stitch. 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 9 

•'RUNNING STITCH' 

We are now ready to take the first stitch. 
Tlie running stitch is made in a straight line 
from right to left. Hold the work with the 
thumb and forefinger of the left hand, putting 
in the needle with the right hand. Take up two 
threads on the canvas. Draw out the needle, 
leaving a half-inch thread at the end and take 
another stitch over the first to hold the thread. 
Now pass over two threads and take up two 
more threads, and continue running and spacing 
the stitches evenly, drawing the thread upwards 
towards the right shoulder. Do not draw the 
thread tight, but let it lie easily on the canvas. 
The running stitch is used for light seams where 
there is little strain and for tucking. 







10 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 
BASTING STITCH 



Basting is a long stitch used to hold the 
material or seam in place until it is more 
securely sewn. It is exactly the same as the 
running stitch, except that it is longer, so it will 
be easier to learn these two stitches together. 
Make the basting stitch an inch below the run- 
ning stitch, using the running stitches as a 
guide to keep them straight. Let us use blue 
zephyr this time. Hold the needle in your hand 
easily, for when making a long stitch in sewing 



uneuen • 

• no.JL • • 



you will do better work with a ^'free" hand, in- 
stead of a hard, tight hand. The length of 
stitch in even basting depends upon the mate- 
rial. For our first lesson, let us make it twice 
the length of the running stitch. So take up 
four threads on the needle and pass over four, 
making them the same length on each side. To 
make uneven basting, take up two threads and 
pass over four. 



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WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 11 



• • nc7. j^ • 




Gathering stitches are made the same as run- 
ning, except that the thread is drawn up on the 
material. We will learn this stitch when we be- 
gin to make real doll babies' clothes. We must 
take these simpler stitches first and learn how 
to use them. In the beginning it will seem very 
hard to make your stitches even and in a 
straight line, but really it isn't a bit harder than 
learning jackstraws. 



12 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW. 



'^Wlien I'm a grown-up woman, 
With my hair up on my head, 
I'll sit and sew 'til very late 
And never go to bed!" 





WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



13 



^'STITCHING STITCH ' 

Suppose we make something while learning 
this next new stitch — a bean bag or an iron 
holder, but first try it on the canvas sampler. 
Hold the material over the forefinger of the left 



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hand and use a piece of yellow zephyr this time. 
The stitching stitch is a stronger stitch than 
running. Take a short stitch backward on the 
right side of the material, then a stitch twice as 
long forward on the wrong side. Take the next 
stitch back, putting the needle in directly at the 
end of the last stitch, making the ends meet. 







An easy rule to remember is that you pass over 
one thread back, and two threads forward. 
Look at the wrong side of the stitch and you'll 
see that it looks quite different from the right 
side, almost like a twisted cord. 



14 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



BACK-STITCHING 

Back-stitching is very mucli like stitching, ex- 
cept that a small space is left between the 
stitches. The needle is carried back only half 
way towards the end of the last stitch. 























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Make one stitch back and three stitches for- 
ward, the back stitch on the right side, the for- 
ward stitch on the wrong side of the material. 
Make this stitch in green zephyr. 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



15 



ii 



Oh! dear! A knot's a puzzle how to make! 
It looks just like a creepy little snake ! 
But what's the use of sewing tight 
If one hasn't started the seam just rights" 




16 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 

MAKING THE BEAN BAG 

To make the bean bag or iron holder we must 
have a piece of nnbleached muslin, a spool of 
No. 30 cotton and a No. 8 needle. Have mother 
cut a piece of material six inches wide by twelve 
inches long. Fold, and baste the edge of two 
sides together carefully a half inch from the raw 
edges. And now we must stop a moment be- 
fore beginning our stitching and learn how to 
make a ^^knot. " A knot is made by twisting the 
end of the thread and prevents the thread from 
slipping out of the material. It would never do 
to have the seem rip out in the bean bag because 
we hadn't fastened the thread, would if? 
To make the knot, hold the thread in the left 
hand and twist the thread 
around the forefinger of the 
right hand, holding it with the 
^Lustration, thumb and rolling it off with 
o^-KNo-r. ^^^ middle finger, pressing the 

end of the thread through the loop around the 
finger. It sounds harder than it really is, as 
you will see when you try to make one two or 
three times. After you have made the knot we 
will begin to sew the bean bag. Just under the 
basting make a line of stitching. At one end of 
the bag is the fold of the material, so there are 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 17 

two side seams to sew. Make a part of each 
seam with the stitching stitch and finisli with the 
back stitch for practice in learning the differ- 
ence between the two stitches. 

After you have finished the seam, fasten the 
thread securely by making several stitches, one 
of the other, bringing the thread out on the 
under side of the material, and cutting with the 
scissors. Never break a thread, as it is likely 
to pull out the sewing. 

Next baste down each edge of the opening, 
turning over a fold on each edge half an inch 
wide. The bag is now ready to be turned on the 
other side so that the raw edges will come on the 
inside. Eun your fingers along the seams to 
press smooth, and pull out the corners carefully. 
We must learn another stitch before we can 
finish the last seam or top of the bag. It is 
called *' over-handing.'' 



18 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 




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**OVER-HANDING" 

Practice first on canvas sampler, using a 
brown zephyr thread. This stitch is used to 
join the two edges closely together on the right 
side of the material. First 
baste the two ends together 
to within a couple of inches 

of the 

end if you are making a 
bean bag, as we must leave 
a little opening to pour in the 
beans before closing up the 
entire seam. If you are making an iron holder, 
get mother to give you several pieces of flannel 
cut in squares to fit, to put inside before begin- 
ning to baste. 

To make the overhand- 
ing stitch sew from right 
to left, holding the ma- 
terial straight before you 
with the two edges to be 
overhanded between the 
thumb and forefinger. Put the material into the 
material between the two thicknesses, pointing 
it straight toward you. 



Take up enough to make a 
firm stitch, and make an- 




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WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 19 

other stitch just a short distance beyond with- 
out crowding one on top of anotlier. In over- 
handing you do not need a knot at the end of the 
thread, begin by allowing a short end of the 
thread to lie along the edge of the material to 
the left, make two stitches, one over the other, 
and sew the end down under the stitches. 




20 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



^^Next comes the catch-stitch, children, 
Isn't that a funny name 
To give to something serious 
As if it were a game'?" 



4 




WHEK MOTHER LETS US SEW 



21 



CATCH-STITCH 



Catch-stitcliing is a loose, fancy stitch used to 
hold down edges that have no wear or tear on 
them such as the seams on flannel petticoats or 



•CATCe-i5TfTCft!nG 




in the trimming of hem or bands. It is pretty 
used as a trimming on dolls' wrappers and 
sacques. As in making the overhanding stitch, 
the needle must point directly toward you. 
This stitch is made from the left to the right 









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CATCH •^STfrCHTHS- 
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and is a slanting cross stitch which on the wrong 
side looks like a running stitch. Each stitch 
should be alike in depth and width. In trim- 
ming bands or hems, keep the lower edge of the 



22 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



stitch on a line with the straight edge to be 
trimmed. Take the stitch straight through the 
double fold of the material. 



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WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



23 



SCISSORS AND TAPE MEASURE 

Now we must have a sewing basket of our 
own! A little workbox in wliich to keep our 
tools. So far we have only needed a thimble, 
needle and thread. To sew like grown-up folks 
we must have a scissors, coarse and fine needles 
from No. 7 to No. 9 and spools of cotton and silk 
in coarse and fine grades, muslin, bodkin, nar- 
row and wide tape and many other things which 
we can get as we require them. 




24 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



Hemming, mother tells me, 
Must be neat and very fine, 

The stitches small and even. 
All in a nice, straight line." 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



25 



HEMMING STITCH 



The hemming stitch is a slanting stitch taken 
from right to left first through the material 
under the folded over hem and then upward, in 
a slanting line toward the left shoulder into the 



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Eight side of hem Hemming stitch 

Showing fold and 
needle in position 

edge of the hem. Do not begin with a knot, but 
sew under the end of the thread with your first 
stitches as in overhanding. The stitches must 
be as small and regular as you can make them. 
Take each stitch in advance of the last one. 













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26 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 

MAKING A DUSTING CLOTH 

Suppose you look in the scrap bag for a 
piece of checked gingham left over from one of 
your little aprons. This would be excellent on 
which to practice catch-stitching as the lines and 
squares of the plaid will make a guide for the 
stitching. Cut-in a large square and baste a 
hem half an inch wide on all four sides and be- 
gin to catch-stitch. Put the needle in the mate- 
rial and take a short stitch toward you, holding 
the cloth over the forefinger of the left hand and 
making the stitch in the same line as you wish 
to make the stitching run. Now take another 
stitch to the right and a little below the first 
stitch in the same manner with the thread over 
the needle. Try to turn the corner nicely. 
Take a stitch to the right and instead of point- 
ing the needle towards you, point it to the left 
or following the line of the hem. Now take an- 
other stitch from this one in the usual way to 
form a square with extended corners. 

Now we will try the hemming stitch, first on 
our sampler of canvas and then on a little piece 
of muslin. After we have learned this, we have 
only one more stitch, a pretty fancy one, and 
then we will begin to make real dolly clothes. 

The edge of the material, after it has been cut 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 27 

or torn, is called the raw edge. To cover this 
edge before hemming the edge must be turned 
over twice, once to enclose the raw edges and 
once to turn the hem. This is called, *' turning 
the hem.'' In a narrow hem the second turn 
just covers the first turn. Wide hems must be 
carefully measured. To do this use a card 
notched at the depth the hem is to be made, run- 
ning it along as you turn over the edge as a guide 
to keep it straight. Practice turning hems of 
different width on a piece of paper. The hem 
must first be basted and then hemmed. 



28 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



^^I have a litle workbox that Grannie gave to 

me. 
It's pink and blue with ribbons, and lots inside 

to see. 
^For my busy little seamstress,' said Grannie, 

low and sweet, 
^And my dear, 'twill please me, if you keep it 

nice and neat!' " 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



29 



MAKING A BIB 

Piece of linen. 

No. 8 Needle. 

No. 50 cotton. 

As a first trial with the scissors in real cutting 
out, we will make a bib for baby brother. You 
know that a bib is oblong shape, longer than it is^ 
wide, so ask mother to show you the length of 
the material so you will know in which direction 




roLb 
Illustration of bib 

to measure it off. Use linen or crash toweling. 
Take your tape measure and measure off for the 
length sixteen inches and twelve for the width. 
Fold lengthwise and mark off three and a half 
inches from the top on the fold and three inches 
across the edge and mark with notches. Cut a 
curved line for the neck from one notch to an- 
other. Finish each side with a narrow hem as 
well as the ends each side of the curved neckline. 



30 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



Make the second turn of the hem just wide 
enough to cover the raw edges of the first turn. 
Make a hem at the lower edge twice the width 
of the side hems, measuring with the marker to 
get the right depth. Bind the edge of the neck 
with half-inch wide tape. First baste it on one 
side, using half the width of the tape, then fold 
over on the othej^ side and baste. Finish with 
running stitches. Sew straight through the 
double thickness of the tape. 





Arabella has a petticoat 



32 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



'^Arabella needs some clothes, 
Frocks and hats, trimmed with bows. 
Shoes so tiny, and fine silk hose. 
From yellow curls to small wax toes." 




J 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



33 



A PETTICOAT FOR ARABELLA 

Let us try a simple gathered petticoat, which 
is made from a straight breadth of material and 
gathered on a band. Ask mother to show you 
the length and breadth required for your dolly. 
First join the two ends of the material together 
half the length with __,., _ 



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a flat fell, which is 

called a seam. The 

other half must be 

opened to form the 

1 1 , ci First sewmg of flat fell 

placket. Seams are ^ 

used to fasten one piece of material to another. 
In a flat fell both of the raw edges are hidden. 
To make a flat fell join the two raw edges to- 
gether, with the one edge about a quarter of an 
inch below the other. Baste an equal distance 

from the lower 
Taw edge and 
sew with a run- 
ning stitch with 
now and then a 
back stitch t o 
make the seam 
stronger. Pull 
out the basting 
Petticoat for Arabella thread when fin- 




34 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 




ished, open the two pieces of material out flat 
and turn the wide edge over the narrow one, first 
turning under the raw edge, then basting and 
hemming. 

Turn a hem at the lower edge of the material 

an inch wide, using 
a notched card as a 



guide to keep it 

even as you fold 

, ^ T . and baste. Finish 

b. Second sewmg . , i i 

With hemming 

stitches. Above 
the hem we will 
trim with tucks. 
Tucks are folds 
sewn in the mate- 
rial as a trimming. 
To make them 
straight and even use a card for a guide as in 
making a hem, measuring the first tuck from the 
top edge of the hem. As you measure crease the 

_ material for 

^^^ the edge of 

-J. Tucks the tuck. Eun 

with basting 

stitching a 

^^^^ quarter o f a n 

Illustrations of tucks inch below the 




c. Last sewing 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



35 



creased edge. Sew with the running stitch un- 
der the line of basting. Use the first tuck as a 
guide in measuring the second, making an equal 
distance between. 




36 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



^*A placket hole! What can that be? 
Mother is busy showing me, 
To make a slit, bind, stitch and turn, 
And keep on trying, 'til I learn!" 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 37 

MAKING A PLACKET 

A placket is an opening in clothes to give 
space so they can be slipped on easily. We 
must make a placket in Miss Dolly Arabella's 








^HOl^DJNG- 
PLAIT-IN-^PLACEZ.- 



petticoat so it can be put on over her head and 
shoulders. The placket is made at the top of 
the back seam which we left open for this pur- 
pose. First make a narrow hem on the left side 
of the opening, turning it on the wrong side, and 
taking up just as much of the material as you 



38 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



used in the flat fell. Now snip into the material 
on the right side at the end of the seam to turn 
the hem on this side, which should be twice the 
width of the one on the left side. After you 
have finished the hem, fold over the entire width 
of the hem over on the left side of the placket. 
This will make a plait in the petticoat just below 
the end of the placket. Sew over the narrow 
hem with a row* of stitches. 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



39 



THE GATHERING STITCH 

The top edge of the petticoat must now be 
made ready to put on the band: First it must 
be gathered. The ^^ gathering" stitch is very 
much the same as the running stitch, except that 



GATkrlEKfOG- 




in gathering, the spaces between the stitches are 
twice the length of the stitch. This is called 
'^uneven gathering," and is the kind used in a 
petticoat. Gathering is used to give fullness 
and to draw the fullness into a smaller spaces. 
Use a strong thread for the gathering and sew 
in a straight line on the right side of the mate- 
rial to the placket at the end. First dividing 
the length of 
the material to 
be gathered into 
two parts and 
using a separate 
thread for each 
part, as 



a long 




Gathering on muslin 



40 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



thread would be likely to break. Sew about a 
quarter of an inch from the raw edge, and it 
would help to keep the gathers in a straight line 
if you would first crease the material as in turn- 
ing the fold for a hem. 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 41 

'STROKING GATHERS^ 

After you have finished draw up the gather- 
ing string to fit the size of the band and fasten 
at each end by twisting the thread around a pin. 
They are now ready to be stroked, which gives 
them a nice, flat appearance and makes them 
hang straight to the lower edge. Use a blunt 
pointed needle, hold the material in the left hand 
and work from left to right. Draw the blunt 
point of the needle in a straight line to the lower 
edge from each gathering stitch. 




42 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



*^When I can measure, cut and sew, 
Won't that be a lot to know'? 
But I'm only a little girl, you see, 
So don't expect too much of me." 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



43 




Gathers set on to band 



PUTTING ON THE BAND 

A band for a petticoat is a double fold of 
straight material cut lengthwise. It should be 
the correct size 
of the waist al- 
lowing for the 
turned- under 
edge and 1 a p- 
over ends. Pin 
the middle o f 
the gathered 
petticoat to the 
middle of one side of the band, holding the 
gathers toward you. Adjust the fullness of 
gathers into the width of the band, allowing at 
each end for the turned-under edge. Baste a 
quarter of an inch from the raw edge. Sew the 

gathers to the 
band with the 
stitching stitch, 
fastening the 
ends of the thread 
securely. Then 
turn over the 
gathers the other 
raw edge of the 
Band hemmed on to gathers band, folding un- 




44 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



der as for the first turn of a hem, turning under 
at the same time the ends of the band. Baste 
directly over the other row of stitching and hem. 
After you have finished overhand the ends to- 
gether. 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 45 

UNDERBODY 

To cut out an underwaist, fold the material 
lengthwise and lay the center front of the waist 
pattern on the fold, which will bring the lower 
edge, front and back, straight with the raw edge 
of the material. Pin the pattern and material 
together at the corners and near the edges to 
keep in flat and straight while cutting out. 
After you have finished, open the material and 
cut from the neck line to lower edge in center 
back. 

Piece of soft muslin. 

No. 8 needle. 

No. 50 white thread. 

As this underbody is in one piece, back and 
front, it is only necessary to join the under-arm 
seams. Sew these with a flat fell, as we used in 
seaming the petticoat. Fold narrow hems on 
each side of the back opening, and turn a wider 
hem at the lower edge, to which the buttons will 
be sewn, first basting and then hemming. To 
finish the neck and armholes neatly we must 
learn how to put on a bias binding. 

To cut bias bands we must first get a true bias 
on the material. A square of material must be 
cut in a slanting line from one corner to another. 
This gives you a bias line from which you can 



46 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 









Underbody 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



47 




A true bias 



cut narrow bias strips for binding. Measure 

with a piece of paper all along the bias edge to 

keep the band the exact 

width as you cut. Then 

pin the band which you 

have cut to the bias edge 

and use as a guide to 

cut the next band. To 

sew this bias band around 

the neck or armhole, 

hold the garment toward 

you, and sew on the 

right side, basting the band just below the edge. 

Sew with a running stitch. 
After you have finished, pull out the basting 

thread. Now turn the bias band over the raw 

edge to the wrong side of the body. Crease 

the edge flat on 
the right side. 
Turn under the 
raw edge as if for 
a hem, the same 
depth as on the 
right side, baste 
and finish with 
hemming stitches. 

Turn under the ends and overhand. In bind- 
ing the sleeves, turn one side of the binding 




Sewing on bias binding with 
runninor stitch 



48 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 

over the other with a turned edge. This makes 
a firm, flat finish. After you have bound both 
the neck and armholes, we will use the bodkin 
to run a draw string into the binding at the 
back. Thread the bodkin with a very narrow 
tape long enough to reach all around the neck, 
allowing a couple of inches on each end, to tie up 
in a bow. Pass the bodkin under the bias fold 
on the right side at one end, and bring out at 
the other end. When you put the underbody 
on Arabella, you can draw up the string and ad- 
just the fullness at the front. In a little while, 
when the other undergarments are cut and 
finished, we will learn how to sew on buttons 
and make buttonholes, so this part of the work 
can all be done at one time. 




Panties for Arabella 



50 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



^^ Underwear scalloped and trimmed with lace, 
Each seam and stitch, neatly in place — 
Nighties of muslin with ribbons blue, 
Petticoats ruffled and finely tucked, too. 
Panties and bodies all ready to wear, 
Now, hasn't my dolly more than her share." 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 
^^DRAWERS ' 



51 



To cut out the panties or drawers lay the 
material on the lengthwise fold of the material 
with the side on the straight fold, as you can see 
in the illustration. After cutting out one leg of 





Front of panties 



Back of panties 



the panties in this way, unpin the pattern and 
place it on the other end of the material. 

The curved seam which forms the leg of 
drawers should be joined first. Baste and then 
sew with a French seam. 



•r°U^ -or- MATERIAL 




N9 



•5H«WIN<J -HOW-TO -R^Ce WTTtWH 
•ON-MATCRIAU* 



This seam is sewn twice, as a flat fell. First 
lay the two raw edges of the seam together on 
the right side of the garment. Baste, quarter 



52 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 




Starting a French seam 



of an inch from the edge, and sew with fine run- 
ning stitches. Then open the two edges flat with 
the tip of your finger. Trim off with the 

scissors smooth ^^ ^^^___, ^ 

and close to the ^^^""^ ^ ^^^ ' ^ 

sewing. Turn 
the seam, bring- 
ing the finished 
side on the wrdng 
side of the garment, then make a new seam over 
the other, hiding or enclosing the raw edges. 
Sew with a back stitch. Join the two leg sec- 
tions together at the 
center seam, with the 
curved seams directly 
opposite to each other, 
beginning at the top of 
the front and extending 
this seam half way up the back, leaving the top 
open for the placket as in making the petticoat. 
Sew with a flat fell or French seam. Turn a 
wide hem at the lower edge of each leg. Make 
a hem on each side of the open seam in babk for 
the placket as you did in the petticoat. We are 
now ready to put on the band. This, too, can be 
put on as the petticoat band, except that the full- 
ness from the gathers should be spread across 
the front and center back, keeping the sides 
plain. 




Second sewing of French 



seam 




Arabella needs a nightgown 



54 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



^^ Lingerie dainty, hand-sewing fine, 
Ruffles and ribbons, just like mine, 
Stitches all even, one at a time. 
Buttons and buttonholes, worked in a line.'' 




WHEN" MOTHEE LETS US SEW 
NIGHT GOWK 



55. 



Here is the night gown pattern laid on the 
material with the center front and back on the 

•NIGHnr-G^WN- 

• STRAIGHT- or • MAH-'ERI/NL,- 




straight fold of the material. After you have 
cut out the material, make a slit down the center 
front fold for the placket opening, half way be- 
tween the neck and waist line. 
Open out the material and 
join the under-arm and side 
seams, placing the notches 
carefully together as marked 
on the diagram of the pat- 
tern. Baste and sew, using 
a flat or French seam. Turn 
up a wide hem at the lower 
edge, basting first and then 

. , hemming. Finish the neck 

The night gown you .., , . i . t 

are makino- ^'vith a narrow bias bmdmg 




56 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



as you did on the underbody. Hem the edges 
of the placket, making the narrow hem on the 
left side of the front and the wider hem on the 
right. The right hand hem folds over the left 
side and must be wide enough to hold the button- 
holes. 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



57 



CASING FOR DRAWING STRING 

Turn a narrow hem around the edges of the 
sleeves. One-half inch above the hem set a nar- 
row bias fold, to make a casing for the drawing 
string to gather in the fullness. Turn under the 
raw edges of bias fold, baste and sew with fine 
running stitches. 



CASINO- 




^N- CASING -HERC 



Begin sewing the casing at the under-arm 
seam, turning under the raw edges at each end, 
but leaving them open for the casing. Thread 
your bodkin with blue baby ribbon and pass 
through casings on each sleeve and around 
neck. 



58 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



^^Miss Dolly needs a mantle and a frock for 

every day, 
And for every stitch of clothes she wears 
Real money must I pay ! 
To say nothing of the making, and sewing, neat 

and fine, • 
But that's not too much trouble 
For a little child of mine!" 





Arabella is measured for her new frock 



60 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 

EVERY-DAY FROCK FOR ARABELLA 

Red polka dotted lawn. 

No. 8 needle. 

No. 60 cotton. 

And now we have come to making a dress! 
We will make a simple one-piece dress just like 
the ones mother makes for you little mothers of 
dolls to wear, -with box plaits and plain color 
band trimmings. 

• STRAIGHT- FbLD- or- MATERIAL.- 



\ 1— — ' F=^Uf\Ct<EZT^' 



^OX' F=>L./\/r^' 




^^LJ^^X^GmEZ: ' 



Every day frock for Arabella 

First take your tape measure and measure 
Arabella down the front from the shoulder to 
just below the knees. This will give you the 
length of her dress when finished. Then allow 
for ahem. Fold the material lengthwise ; as the 
back and front of this dress is in one piece, the 
length of the material must be twice the length 
of measurement from shoulder to end of hem. 
After cutting the length of the material, 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



61 




I. Detail of box 
plait. 



measure off the box plaits, and baste and sew 
with a running stitch. There are three box 
plaits, one at the direct center and one on each 
side. A box plait is measured 
oft* and made like a tuck, except 
that in this case the edge of the 
tuck is opened out flat over the 
line of sewing, and basted until 
the dress is finished when they 
can be pulled out. Make these 
box plaits to the waist line front 
and back. Now lay the pattern on the material 
with the center box plait folded directly in the 
center. Pin carefully and cut. Join the sides 
at notches for the under seam^ 
and baste. Sew with a 
French seam. Turn a wide 
hem around the lower edge of 
the skirt, baste and sew. Slit 
the material down the back 
under the center box plait, 
from the neck to waist line, for the placket open 
ing. To finish this opening we must make a ' ' fly- 
fastening." 




2. Open 



62 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



FLY-FASTENING 

In this kind of a placket the buttons and 
buttonholes are hidden. Cut two straight strips 

•ruV- PASTCNING • 




NOl -SHOWING- 
HOW -TO . MAKC- 
BAND 'r=>'^ -BUTTONS 




No^- SHEW- 
ING -ONE- 
"^'-^ BAND •OVER. 
• LAPPING • 
THE-OThEK- 



of material the length of the placket. The 
strips must be doubled and wide enough to hold 
the buttons on one and to make buttonholes on 
the other. When finished, one band lies di- 
rectly over the other. Baste and sew one strip 
to the under left side of the slit. Turn out the 
strip and fold it over the raw edges, turn under 
an edge and sew with running stitches. At the 
end, turn under the raw edges and overhand, 
slipping under the right side of the slit. This 
is the band on which we will sew the buttons. 
Now make a narrow hem on the other side of 
the placket. Then turn the raw edges of the 
other band, double it and baste the edges to- 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW '63 

gether. Baste it to the under side of the box 
plait, keeping the edge of plait and band even. 
Sew with heniniing stitches. This is the band 
for the buttonholes. 



•BAND TRIMMING 

Use plain color material to make the bands 
which finish and trim the neck and edges of the 
sleeves. Cut these bands on the bias, and begin 
with the neck, sewing on as a binding, first on 
the wrong side. Begin to sew at the right side 
of the fly-fastening in back. Baste and then 
finish with running stitches. Drew the basting 
threads, turn the band over to the right side, 
enclosing the raw edges, baste, and sew flat with 
a running or back stitch. Hold the binding 
easily around the curve of the neck in the first 
sewing, to keep the lower edge easy fitting. To 
finish neatly in the back, cut the ends straight, 
turn under and sew. 



64 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



^Pins and needles and spools of thread, 
A pair of scissors and cashmere red, 
Out on my table neatly spread. 

^Be good, dear Dolly,' I gayly said; 

^Everything's ready to go ahead. 

Soon you'll have your mantle new, 

And please be very careful to 

Brush and fold when you put it away 

And I'll let you wear it every day.' " 





Arabella's frock 



66 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



^'MAKING THE MANTLE" 

Red cashmere. 
Eed silk lining. 
Red sewing silk No. A. 
No. 8 needle. 

Fold the material double and place the center 
front of pattern on the selvage edge. The back 

'MAKING -THC -MANTLE: • 



CENTF^E-BACK- 



•RUNNING 





line of pattern should be straight on the fold of 
material. Pin to material. After cutting, open 
out material, turn and baste a hem at each side 
of the center front and around the lower edge. 
Place the hood pattern on double fold of the 
material, with the center back line at the fold. 
Cut the silk for the hood lining exactly the same 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 67 

as the material. Now open out both the cash- 
mere and silk and baste and sew together 
with running stitches, half an inch inside the 
raw edges. Do not baste around the line of 
neck, as the hood must be gathered and attached 
to the cape. Turn the lining over the material, 
or ^^ inside out," which will hide the raw edges 
and make it look like a big bag with a hole at 
the top. Baste the seamed edges all around to 
keep the material and silk lining smooth and 
flat while sewing and finishing the neck of the 
hood and cape. 

Make a casing to draw up the hood. Sew two 
rows of running stitches one-half inch apart, 
sewing in the first row the depth of a hem from 
the edge, as you can see in the detail illustration 
of the hood. Eun a narrow red ribbon through 
this casing, with a bodkin. Do not draw up the 
ribbon until the neck of the hood is gathered 
and attached to the cape at the neck. 

Now sew a row of gathering stitches between 
the ends of casing stitches at the neck of the 
hood and draw up to the same size as the neck 
of the cape. Pin the center back of the hood 
to the center back of the cape. Baste the two 
raw edges evenly together and sew with back 
stitches, just below the basting thread. Finish 
the raw edges with a narrow bias binding or fold 



68 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



of red silli. Sew first on tlie fight side with run- 
ning stitches, turn over the raw edges, and hem 
down on the wrong side. Turn under the ends 
neatly and overhand. 

At each side of the neck sew a piece of nar- 
row red ribbon, wliich may be tied in a bow to 
fasten the cape to keep Arabella warm. 





Arabella likes her warm mantle 



70 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



^^Now I'm making a flannel sacque, 
For my dolly shall nothing lack! 
For IVe learned to sew so well, 
That I can cut, baste and fell. 
And that's not all the sewing I know. 
Just wait and to you I'll show 
The buttonholes I've neatly worked, 
For not one lesson have I shirked!" 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 71 

FANCY FLANNEL SACaUE ' 

Piece of white flannel. 
Skein of embroidery silk in pink or blue. 
Embroidery needle with large eye. 
Don't you think Arabella should have a little 
sacque to wear in the garden on cool mornings ^ 

♦ PANcy- r L ANrsCL- 3 acoue: ^ 

• r^LD • °'^. : M ATE PJ AL • 




We will make one like the pattern in one piece. 
Place the pattern on the straight fold of the 
material and cut around the edges and make the 
two slits for the sleeve. Cut through the center 
front fold from the neck to lower edge. When 
you unpin the pattern from the flannel and open 
out the material you will have a perfect circle. 
To finish the raw edge of the flannel sacque, we 
must learn another stitch, called the 




Arabella wears her new saeque 



"lit 

I'll \ 

urn 


^4 


/A 

4 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 73 

BLANKET STITCH 

When you learn this stitch it will be very easy 
to then learn the buttonhole stitch, as they are 
very much alike. 
Try it first on the canvas with the tapestry 

peedle and zephyr 
thread. The blan- 
ket stitch is made 
from left to right. 
Do not knot the 
zephyr, but make 

T^T , ^ ... , r, 1 one or two short 
c. Blanket stitch on flannel . . . , i 

running stitches 

near the edge to hold the thread. Put the 
needle in the material and bring it out a quar- 
ter of an inch below for the edge, keeping 
the thread under the needle to form a loop. Put 
the needle in again on the line with the first 
stitch, bringing it out underneath and over the 
zephyr as before. In making this stitch on the 
flannel, hold the raw edge toward you, and point 
the needle toward you. Do not draw the thread 
tight, but let it lie easily along the edge to the 
right of the last stitch. Insert the needle on a 
straight line at the same height with the last 
stitch. Continue making the stitches at even 
spaces apart and at the same height. When 



74 



WHEN" MOTHER LETS US SEW 



turning a corner take several stitches in the 
same hole, spreading them around the edge 
in fan shape. To fasten the thread take the 
needle through to the wrong side and make a 
running stitch back of the last blanket stitch. 
In beginning with a new thread, make a running 
stitch on the wrong side and bring the needle 
through the loop of the 
last stitch, always keep- 
ing the needle in front of 
the thread. Continue this 
stitch around all the raw 
edges of the sacque, ex- 
cept at the neck. 

Finish the neck with a 
narrow binding of ribbon, leaving long enough 
ends to tie a bow in front. Sew narrow ribbons 
under the sleeves to the front and back pieces, 
half way between the opening, to hold the back 
and fronts together. The opening of the sleeves 
are joined with ribbons in the same way. 

The next step is to learn how to sew on buttons 
and make buttonholes, for Arabella's under- 
clothes and dress are ready to be finished. 




Blanket stitch on canvas 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 75 

SEWING ON BUTTONS' 

Four-holed buttons. 

No. 7 or 8 needle. 

No. 50 cotton. 

Use a double thread to make it stronger. 

Buttons are always sewn to the double fold of the 

material so they will not pull out. Begin by 

making a stitch on the right side of the material, 

to be covered 

b y the button. 

Put the needle 

up through one 

hole and then 

down through 
Using a pin to keep the thread loose ^^^^ ^^j^ ^.^^^^^^ 

opposite, carrying the thread across, then bring 
the needle up in the hole between the two 
through which the thread has already been 
passed and take it down through the opposite 
hole, making a cross. Put a pin across the 
top side of the button under the first stitches, 
and take a few more stitches over the pin. This 
is to keep the stitches a little loose, as buttons 
sewn on too tightly soon tear out, and are hard 
to button. "When enough stitches have been 
taken through the holes of the button to fasten 
it securely, pull the pin away from under the 




76 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 

stitches. Now bring tlie needle out on the under 
side of the button and pass the thread around 
several times to make a kind of stem, so that the 
buttonhole will slip more easily around the 
button. Fasten the thread on the wrong side 
in a slanting stitch. 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



77 



DARNING ' 

Darning is used to strengthen worn places or 
to draw together torn edges of material. For 
a simple darn the running stitch 
is used. Each row of stitches 
should be made evenly, one after 
the other on the wrong side of 
the material. In making the 
second row of stitches, bring the 
stitch on the upper side of the 
material, directly opposite to the 
space in the first row where the 
stitch is made, on the under side 
of the material, with a small loop of thread at 
each end. Hold the place to be darned over the 
forefinger of the left hand. Make the rows of 
stitches close together so as to make the darn as 
strong as possible, making every other row of 
stitches on an even line. 



ntr™^! 


^S^t 


Pl^ff r 


A^A^A^JL 


^U^v^.r^"" 


4*^4^4^41- 


*,1^4^4^'" 


A^A^A*^., 


4*-} &-ti^ 


iJJf-AJ^A^^ 


_::::ni '^ . 


::::-±..:.-: 



Darning stitch 
on canvas 



78 WHEN" MOTHER LETS US SEW 

m 

MAKING BUTTONHOLES 

We are now ready to make the buttonholes. 
It is always better to make the buttonholes and 
sew on the buttons as each garment is finished, 
and this is how mother would work, but as you 
are only learning, I have left this until the last, 
so you would know how to sew very well indeed 
before beginning the buttonholes, which are not 
so easy for little inexperienced fingers. 

Buttonholes are little slits used to slip over the 
button to fasten the different parts of garments 
together. The edge is finished with a '^button- 
hole stitch" to make it strong and durable. 

Practice the stitch on the canvas with zephyr, 
and do not cut the slit as for a real buttonhole. 
Take a piece of zephyr half again as long as the 
usual thread, so that you will not have to use a 
new thread, as it would be hard to join it neatly 
in making a buttonhole. 

As we are working on canvas, mark the line 
for the slit in white cotton, with running stitches, 
an inch in length. Put the needle in at the 
lower right hand side of the guide thread, point- 
ing it toward you and work from the right to 
left. Bring it out four or five threads below, or 
just far enough to prevent the edge from ravel- 
ing. Before drawing the needle out take the 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



79 




Buttonhole stitch 



thread from the right side of the needle and pass 
it under the point and around to the left side, 
Draw the needle out with the 
thread straight before you, so 
that the thread will purl at the 
edge. Make the next stitch close 
to the first, exactly the same 
depth and in the same way. 
When you reach the end of the 
thread, spread the stitches 
around in fan shape and work down the other 
side. When this is finished make the stitches 
straight across the right end as in the illustra- 
tion. 

In making the buttonholes 
in the doll's clothes, cut a 
slit a tiny bit longer than the 
width of the button. First 
fold the hem or placket over 
at its center, and cut care- 
fully through the exact length. Hold the mate- 
rial slanting across the forefinger of the left 
hand with the inside lower edge of the button- 
hole toward you. First outline the slit with 
long stitches, slipping the needle in at each end 
from one side to the other. This makes a heavy 
edge and strengthens the buttonhole. Then 
make long overcasting stitches around the edge, 




Buttonhole 



80 WHEN MOTHEK LETS US SEW 

to hold the threads, taking care not to pull the 
thread too tightly. Then proceed with the but- 
tonhole stitches as on the canvas. 




WHEN MOTHEK LETS US SEW 



81 



Now we'll learn to make a patch, 
So the edges neatly match, 
For little girls they tear their clothes, 
And dolls might too, for all one knows ! 




82 



WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 




1. Wrong side 



^TATCHING" 

A patch is a piece of material sewn to clothes 
to mend holes and worn places. The patch 
should be of the same ma- 
terial as the garment to be 
mended, and so that it will 
be very neat when fin- 
ished, it should be put on 
with the weave running 
in the same direction as 
the part of the material 
to be patched, matching 
as closely as possible. 

A patch is usually square, whether the hole is 
square or round. Cut the patch at least half an 
inch larger all around than the hole. Baste it 
on the wrong side, making the stitches halfway 

between the edges of the 
patch and the edges of 
the hole. If the hole is 
ragged, trim the edges 
neatly in a square or cir- 
cle. 

First hem the garment 

to the patch, then hem 

the patch to the garment. 

2. Right side Turn under a narrow 




WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 



83 



edge on the right side at the hole, basting and 
hemming, then turn a narrow edge on the patch, 
and baste and finish with hemming stitches. 

If it is square, snip 
into the material at each 
corner so the edges will 
turn under neatly with- 
o u t puckering. If 
round, snip in four 
places at equal distances 
apart. Then begin to 
sew the edges with hem- 
m i n g stitches, making 
them as fine and neat as 
possible, remembering that the stitches on the 
wrong side of the patch will show through on the 
right side of the garment. 

The patch is now finished and should be 
pressed with a hot iron to make the edges as flat 
as possible. 




3. Bast and hem 
wrong side 



on 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 

^^ 3 mo 




DDD173^3t.4^ 



